Kristine K. Schlamp, IPM Coordinator
WSU Extension, Whatcom County
I am the new IPM
Coordinator for Whatcom County, replacing Todd Murray who has now moved
to King County. I am very excited about this, and look forward to working
with the people of Whatcom County on pest management projects that
concern us.
My background is
well suited for this position; I hold a Master’s of Pest Management
degree from Simon Fraser University, British Columbia (BC) and have
spent a lot of time in the field working on various pest problems.
I have been exposed to a wide variety of systems, including urban,
agricultural, horticultural and even forestry projects. I have worked
with a variety of field crops including cranberries, blueberries, strawberries,
raspberries and potatoes, as well as a variety of greenhouse crops
including cucumbers, tomatoes, and peppers.
This is not my first
foray into extension work; while in BC, I worked at the Ministry of
Agriculture and Lands, as a pesticide information officer, which exposed
me to a variety of agricultural extension work. I have also had the
pleasure of teaching various courses in the Horticultural department
at Kwantlen University College (BC).
With these experiences
and skills, I am ready and willing to take on the challenge of applying
myself to the agricultural concerns of Whatcom County. Throughout North
America, new laws are being proposed that restrict or eliminate usage
of toxic chemicals, therefore innovative ideas must be investigated.
Prevention is the first step, while cultural and biological controls
are now the driving force of the research industry. In this sense,
IPM is a viable management strategy and is becoming increasingly important
in plantscapes and agriculture situation.
If you have any
questions, please feel free to contact me at 360/676-6736 or by email
at kschlamp@wsu.edu. |
Disease
Control for Fall
While you are out enjoying the crisp fall weather, it
would be a good idea to pay particular attention to disease control in
your garden or landscape area. Horticulturalists who sustain vigorous
plants often use a combination of common sense (not necessarily so common)
tactics to keep wilts, rots, leaf spots, and a plethora of similar diseases
under control. Now, that you have spent the last couple of months fertilizing,
watering and pruning (to name a few duties) and your garden looked wonderful,
its time to pay particular attention to details so your work in the Spring
may be lessened. Use the following strategies:
- Bacterial and
fungal organisms produce spores and structures that are specifically
designed to overwinter in your garden. Remove fallen
leaves to reduce leaf spot diseases, such as black spot of rose and
photinia leaf blight. Remove and destroy all your annuals. For vegetable
gardens,
remove crop debris that collected over the summer months. This includes
tomato, potato, cucumber, melon and squash vines, as well as fruits
and tubers. These basic sanitation steps will reduce diseases such
as early
blight and septoria leaf spot of tomatoes.
- If you
didn’t do so in the summer, now would be a good time
to walk through your garden and record each plant’s location,
especially vegetables. This will help you plan for next season’s
planting strategy. Diseases often build up in areas where the same
vegetable has
been planted in consecutive seasons. By rotating crops, farmers use
this technique to keep disease incidence down.
- For those of
you with fruit or nut trees, pruning will help reduce diseases such
as fire blight and black knot. Proper pruning methods require
you to prune at least six inches (15 cm) below the last visible sign
of infection. After each cut, clean and disinfect your tools to prevent
spreading the disease. Also remove any old fruit that remains hanging,
or has fallen from the tree. Rake and destroy fallen leaves to reduce
sources of inoculum of diseases such as brown rot and apple scab.
- New homeowners
or people that have introduced new plants to their existing landscape
should
examine their plantscape with a critical eye.
Overcrowding plants can encourage disease pathogens, so always plant
new shrubbery at the recommended spacing to ensure adequate air circulation.
Plants that are close to their neighbors don’t dry out as quickly
and are vulnerable to disease attacks. Also, remove any dead or diseased
branches.
Now that
you’ve raked,
picked and pruned, what should you to do with all this plant refuse;
compost it? Although most foliar pathogens
are destroyed, some soil borne pathogens will persist in rotting crop
refuse. To eliminate these, proper composting methods are essential.
A high temperature needs to be maintained for an adequate period. If
the high temperature cannot be maintained, the plant refuse should be
destroyed. For further information on composting, see http://www.whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost.
Finally,
on those cold blustering days when you are flipping through garden
catalogs, in front of a roaring
fire, select varieties suitable
to your site conditions. If possible, decide on cultivars that are disease-resistant.
Understanding the needs of your plants as well as the needs of disease
organisms will help you minimize losses, and make your garden an ‘easier
place to grow in’ for both you and your plants.
|