Sunflowers, Part II: More about common and
not-so-common sunflowers
Part
II of a series about sunflowers…
Family: Compositae
Genus: helianthus
Picture
courtesy Mary Sorrows Hughes I read
the other day that research scientists are working to extract
DNA from very old potato leaves in order
to replicate the fungus that caused Ireland’s Great Potato
Famine in the 19th century. I say, they could save themselves
the trouble and just visit my yard. Surely what they’re looking
for can be found among the specimens that have appeared this
year as never before. Fungal infestations are everywhere, brought
on, I imagine, by the climatic conditions that are perfect
for fungi and really, really annoying to their natural enemy:
the home gardener.
You
can pinch back the seedlings now if you prefer bushy plants
and smaller flowers. Slugs are found of sunflower
seedlings when they’re young and tender, so be sure to place
the bait or slug barrier of your choice around them until they
get a foothold. Feeding is not necessary beyond the initial
placement of the seed in a bed well amended with organic material.
In fact, overfeeding a sunflower—easy to do—can lead to lush
foliage at the expense of blooms.
Aphids are sometimes a problem with sunflowers.
Catch them early and make their lives difficult by dislodging
them with a strong blast of water. Powdery mildew can appear,
most often after bloom, when other annuals are beginning to
look a bit ratty, too.
You
no doubt chose a dwarf variety for this last planting. Dwarf
sunflowers, like those cultivated commercially,
are more the height of a small dog’s eye rather than elephant-size.
If you decide you like the look of sunflowers and the ease
of care required, you can start earlier next year. Stagger
your plantings at ten-day intervals, placing the tall varieties
at the back of the border and working forward through intermediate
and finally to dwarf at the front. Plant the tall ones first;
they have more growing to do.
In
an attempt to have annual sunflowers bloom earlier, some
gardeners start them in flats or three-to-a-pot
and transplant the seedlings into the garden after they’ve
developed their first true leaves. This gardener has tried
both methods—seeding in place and transplanting—and the results
have never varied. The plants grown from seed in place quickly
outstrip the transplanted ones, growing taller more quickly
and staying more robust throughout their one-season lives.
Adjectives
most often applied to sunflowers, whether annual or perennial,
include “tough,” “tolerant,” and “not-for-tidy-
gardens.” While that certainly applies to annual sunflowers
in the tall class, it’s less applicable to intermediate and
dwarf varieties. All have the same large, oval, serrated green
leaves, although they are less prominent on the smaller varieties
and the entire plant looks…well, more tidy. The flowers can
still be five to seven inches in diameter, varying in color
from white to pale yellow to deep orange and brick red. They
can resemble daisies, or chrysanthemums. All make excellent
cut flowers, as do the blooms of most of the perennial sunflowers.
Perennial
sunflowers—examples include H. atrorubens ‘Monarch’,
to seven feet tall with branching stems and many daisy-like
golden flowers; H. salicifolius, with narrow, willow-like leaves
and yellow flowers in autumn; and H. augustifolius, also with
narrow leaves and a profusion of pale yellow flowers in late
summer—can be only marginally hardy here. They can also be
invasive, spreading rapidly by underground stems. But if you
have an open area in the back of your garden, you might want
to try H. ‘Loddon Gold’. This five-foot perennial is covered
with three-inch double-form, golden blooms in early autumn.
It puts on quite a show. H maximilianii, the native perennial
sunflower, rivals ‘Loddon Gold’ for brilliance in an even larger
form.
Enjoy
your sunflowers. This is about the time when Northwesterners
forget that winter ever existed or might,
again. The sunflowers in your garden will reflect the real
thing that’s finally shining in our skies. |