Grow
healthy lawns
If you do have and want to keep your lawn, then it is important
to keep it as healthy and vigorous as possible so that it can
tolerate most levels of crane fly larvae feeding. Here are some
of the key ways to keep your lawn in high vigor.
Grow lawns only in sunny locations. Significant shade weakens
the turf.
Remove the build up of thatch. Thatch is old grass stems that
build up on the surface of the soil, under that green blades
you see. Thatch restricts the movement of water and nutrients
into the soil and the roots of the grass. Removal of thatch
is done mechanically with equipment that is usually rented or
hired out.
Another way to boost the strength of the root system besides
removing thatch is the process of aerification. Aerification
is also usually done mechanically with rented equipment. This
process cuts and brings to the surface soil and root cores that
then reintroduces oxygen into the soil, which results in stimulating
root development. Aerification also improves the movement of
water and nutrients into the soil.
Mow your lawn regularly. The correct mowing height is a function
of the type of grass species in your lawn. Bentgrass predominates
in most older lawns here in Whatcom County. Newer lawns often
are comprised of mostly perennial ryegrass and creeping red
fescue. Bentgrass produces much more thatch than ryegrass and
fescue, although all will benefit from dethatching. Bentgrass
should be mowed much lower, to about ¾ of an inch, while
the newer lawns containing rye and fescue should be mowed to
1 to 11/4 inches in height. During the summer this means mowing
every week or so, as you never want to remove more than 1/3
of the total grass blade length. Waiting longer between mowing
and removing more of the grass blade weakens the grass. When
you mow, leave the grass clippings on the lawn, as they provide
a safe source of recycled nutrients and thereby reduce the need
to additional fertilizer. If the grass is wet when you mow,
you may need to knock the clumps apart so not to smother the
living grass below. I find that the back of a lawn rake works
well.
Lawns do need some fertilization, although not as much as is
sometimes applied. Mulching your cut grass clippings directly
on the turf also reduces this need as well. Research indicates
that grass benefits from more nitrogen and potassium than phosphorus,
which is good, because phosphorus is a direct and major threat
to surface water, such as Lake Whatcom. So look for fertilizer
that has the three numbers in this ratio 3-1-2 or 6-1-4 or close
to it. The first number is nitrogen, the second, and the one
to minimize in the Lake Whatcom watershed is phosphorus, and
the last number is potassium.
If you want a green lawn in the late summer, then irrigation
is important. Having said that, your lawn will not die, but
rather go dormant, with a brown color, in the summer without
irrigation with no harm to its overall health. The root system
of a healthy lawn is at least a foot deep in the soil. Watering
should de done infrequently but sufficiently long enough duration
so to wet the entire root zone. This means applying about one
to 11/2 inches of water every four to six days and nothing in-between.
These infrequent but deep waterings build a deep and strong
root system. You can easily tell how much water you are applying
by placing an empty tin can or two out on your lawn to measure
the collected spray. Make note of how much time it takes to
collect an inch of water in the can.
So, all of these management actions highlighted above help make
a strong and healthy lawn that can easily tolerate the attack
of crane fly on most lawns. This approach should be the first
line of defense and will greatly reduce the need to take any
other action, including the use of insecticides, on your lawn.
If you suspect that your lawn is under an unusual level of attack
by crane fly, then its time to employ some more IPM tactics.
continued.....
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