Tis the Season
By Faye Agner

January 2006

The fun catalogs are here now. I have a new garden this year and will likely do as I always do. My eyes are always too big for the space available. Glance through the new catalogs, and then put them aside for a rainy day when nothing can be done in the yard. Plan your garden and then get your seeds ordered. Read the catalog hype carefully. You may be able to sort out some of the information and get a bit of amusement in the process. As a general rule, add ten days to the harvest time given to allow for our area. Read carefully and enjoy.

January is the time to begin looking for the creepy crawly visitors in the yard. Inspect your spruce trees for the small green aphids that caused the previous season’s needles to drop. If you find them, check with Whatcom County Extension for control methods. It is also the time of year to consider your dormant spraying. As a general rule, you will need a minimum of one spray and up to three, depending on your problem. Consult your local nursery person. When you get your spray home, read the label carefully and follow the directions exactly.

Many deciduous plants that bear fruit and flowers in the spring need pruning now and through February. The reasons for pruning are many: to cut off the sick and dead branches that are no longer hidden by leaves, to affect the yield and size of the fruit, to affect flower production, and to improve overall health and form in preparation for spring growth. Some basic guidelines include cutting branches that cross or grow too close together, allowing light and air in. Be sure and cut the branches that grow straight up from the top branches of the fruit trees. These branches are not only unproductive, but left on the tree they soon will shade out lower growth, causing thinning, dieback and reduced fruit production. Generally, severe pruning will produce larger flowers or fruit, while lighter pruning will produce more of the above, but smaller. With the winds we have been having, it is a good idea to keep watch on your trees for broken branches that need care.

Needs for pruning chores include a pair of shears that can be used for general work, long handled shears (also called loppers) and a pruning saw. When purchasing your tool, go for quality over quantity. It will pay you in the long run. It is a good idea to disinfect your cutting tools between each tree or bush so that if there is a disease present, it will not be spread.

Speaking of tools, on the days you can’t work out of doors is the time to go over your tools and give them any care they need. Clean and disinfect your tools. Oil and sharpen those that need it. Sand and paint the handles of your tools in bright colors, so there are no splinters and you will be able to find them.

If you have roses or trees on your list on your yard plan, now is the time to buy them bare root. Don’t buy by price alone. For trees, look for older, bigger, and nicely branching stock. Generally speaking, older trees (two and three years old), though more expensive, will bear fruit and flowers sooner than a younger one. And, though you might easily find bare-root plants sold pre-packages in plastic bags, shop for stock sitting freely in raised beds filled with sawdust. Also try to purchase bare-root before it’s grown leaves. These can be planted anytime if the ground is not frozen. They will establish themselves quickly in your garden

If you received an orchid as a gift or already have one, here are some hints on caring for the Phalaenopsis, or Moth orchid. Cut off all spent blooms after they fade. Cut stems back to the first node below the lowest faded bloom; often the remaining stem will produce another round of blooms. Feed once a week, using tap water with a light fertilizer (about a teaspoon of 19-31-17 liquid fertilizer to a gallon of water). With a narrow-nose catering can, irrigate just inside the pot rim, under the plant leaves. Allow the pot to drain.
If you have Holiday cactus, (Christmas cactus), they also need some special care. One of these plants can live for 25 years or more, getting larger and more attractive every year. The care they need includes a cool bright spot out of direct sun. Keep one on display near an east-facing window and it will be happy. Before you water them, check soil moisture with your index dinger. Water thoroughly when the top half-inch of soil dries out. Fertilize as new buds appear or when flower buds start to swell. Use a liquid fertilizer formulated for houseplants every 7 to 10 days until growth or flowering cycle ends. Come spring, and it warms up outside, place the plant outside. Next November start initiating December’s bloom. Put your plant in a place where nights are cool (50-55 degrees) and there is no artificial light. After the flower buds form, you can stop the cool/dark treatment and start fertilizing for a strong three-week bloom cycle.

Check the mulch around shrubs and trees, and make sure it isn’t right up against the stem or trunks. Mice may use the protection of the mulch to eat away at the bark and the cambium. Keep all mulches several inches away from the base of the plants.

Be sure to check that any plants under the shelter of the overhang of your home have enough moisture in the soil. It is not unusual for such plants to suffer drought damage in the winter. Dig down past the top inch or so to make sure the entire root zones are moist and, if they are not, water them.
Lawns need special care also. Try to avoid walking on frozen lawn. It may damage the grass. Rake up any fallen leaves that pile on the lawn to prevent suffocation of grass. Scatter snow instead of piling it up on the lawn next to the drives and walks. After a wet spell, inspect the lawn for waterlogged areas and make a note for future remedial action. Don’t do anything now as you will do more harm than good.

In light of recent world developments, maybe you can find a corner to plant a red, white and blue arrangement of petunias, pansies or sweet peas.
Have a good new year and do the Asian way and have all your debts paid so you can start anew.


WHO AM I?
I am rather coarse looking, but am valuable for profuse late summer and autumn bloom. Numerous leafy stems yield great sheaves of daisy-like, typically brown centered, blossoms with yellow, orange, red or coppery rays. In many sneezeweeds, the ray flowers are relaxed. Trim off my faded blooms to encourage long bloom. I do best in hot summer areas.

Last month was Christmas cactus.